When you’re travelling, you often stumble across once-in-a-lifetime opportunities – it’s one of the greatest things about travelling. But, there are far fewer times when you sit back in the moment and think this will be a memory that lasts a lifetime. For me, the Thakhek loop was one of those.
True, I haven’t done the more famous Hà Giang loop (yet!), but from what I’ve heard from other travellers, they’re not really comparable. With the Thakhek loop, you have to drive yourself (or find a fellow traveller who doesn’t mind carrying you for the trip) and it has a much more relaxed vibe. Plus, it’s waaay quieter.
The Thakhek loop is an adventure through rural Laos, driving on winding roads over flooded fields, and local villages, through valleys surrounded by stunning mountains, and passing local villages you would otherwise never have seen on the more traditional tourist route.
My first stop in Laos, this loop set very high expectations for the rest of the country and I am sad every time I hear someone visiting Laos but skip this stop. I think a few people are put off by the thought of it being a self-guided loop. With this guide, I hope to give you all the information you need so you won’t need to look anywhere else.
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Quick Loop Overview
Length of Loop: 450 km. You can do the loop in 3-5 days, depending on stops and your pace. I found 4 days and 3 nights to be the perfect amount of time and seemed to be the most common among travellers.
Best Time to Visit: November to March is the dry season in Laos, so you’re more likely to have an enjoyable ride during these months. We did the loop in November which was perfect as the scenery was still green and lush from the wet season. I’ve heard it can look pretty dry after a few months of the hot Laoation weather.
Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate. The road is almost completely tarmacked except for a small section (more details on that later). I would say I’m pretty new to the bike and managed to loop without any accidents.
Known for: It’s caves and stunning scenery
But there are a lot of potholes and large trucks that come around winding corners completely on the other side of the road. People have been known to get into serious accidents, so make sure you drive with caution and are responsible with your speed.
Budget Overview: $80+ (including food, accommodation, bike rental and activities)
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Preparing for the Thakhek Loop
How to Get to Thakhek
Whether you’re coming from North Laos or South Laos, the easiest way to get to Thakhek is by bus. There’s no train station in the village, and private transport, whilst convenient, is way more expensive.
Now, buses in Laos are often an experience. The roads are not that great, and the bus we got from Vientiane to Thakhek was very tight, so if you’re taller than my 5’5”, you may be in for a pretty unforgettable ride. But that’s all part of the backpacking experience, right?
Where to Buy Bus Tickets to Thakhek
Typically, there are a few ways to buy bus tickets when travelling: a local vendor with a sign outside you happen to notice as you’re walking past, your hostel, or through 12Go. I would just try all three and see which one is the cheapest.
Just don’t go off purely what is available on 12Go, especially when leaving Thakhek – local vendors often have more bus options for a lot cheaper. For example, there was no night bus to leave Thakhek on 12Go, but we managed to find one at a local motorbike shop. It’s often a little bit of luck as to who you talk to and what shop you walk past.
The bus will take you to Thakhek bus station. From there, you will be hounded by tuk-tuk drivers looking to take you to your accommodation. Just note that they won’t haggle. As there is no other kind of transport, they know they have you. We paid 50,000 KIP each for about a 10-minute journey, and they packed as many of you as possible. But that was the ride we met the people whom we would then do the loop with so it was a pretty great tuk-tuk.
Read Also: Planning the Perfect Laos Itinerary from 7-14 Days
Where to Rent Motorbikes
As this is the main reason tourists travel to Thakhek, there are plenty of bike shops to rent from. Based on reviews and recommendations from locals, the three best shops in Thakhek are Pokemon Go Rental, Mixay Rental, and Wangwang Rental.
There are slight price differences between them, but it’s nothing major. We rented from Pokemon Go (not going to lie, the name really did appeal to me, but we also heard they didn’t take passports as a deposit (they do…) and it was 180 000 Kip per day for an automata. Mixay is similar, with 180 000 kips for an automatic and 150 000 for a semi-automatic. Wangwang is slightly cheaper at 160,000 kips per day for an automatic, but that works out to be around $0.91 per day, so it’s not much.
As I said, most companies will ask you for a passport for a deposit. If possible, avoid giving your passport at all costs. Not only will you be without it for the next 4 days, but it’s just not a good idea to give it to strangers.
Unfortunately, the shops here ask for a very high cash deposit (Wangwang was $300) or your passport, so it can feel like that’s the only option. However, whilst Pokémon Go wanted our passports, we managed to convince them to take our driving licenses instead.
Things to consider when renting a bike:
- Don’t get a new bike – this might sound counterintuitive, but a new bike is much more likely to show scratches. If you do happen to get into an accident (touch wood that you don’t), an older bike will hopefully hide any bumps.
- Take a video of your bike before you leave – To be honest, they didn’t seem too fussed when we returned the bikes, but it’s good practice to take a video in case you do come across a company trying to make a quick few dollars from you.
- Check the brakes before you leave the shop – I made this mistake, and whilst my brakes weren’t too bad, I definitely would have preferred them to work a bit better. Ask to ride your bike up and down the street and see how they feel. Don’t feel bad about asking for another bike.
- Automatic or Semi-Automatic? If you’re unsure, stick with the automatic. It takes the stress of changing gears, and you can just enjoy the ride and focus on driving. We had no issue with ours, and there were only a few hills that we had to take a little slowe,r but it wasn’t crazy.
Of course, if you do know how to ride a semi, you’ll probably be better off renting one of those.
What To Pack
Given that you will be away for 2-4 nights, depending on your chosen itinerary, you don’t need a whole lot. You can decant what you need into a smaller backpack that will be much easier to take on your bike and leave your bag in Thakhek. Most accommodations will let you leave your big backpack or suitcase with them for the week, as they know you’re likely doing the loop if you stay there.
Whilst I’m sure you can pack what you need for 2-4 days of travel, I do have some tips on what to take:
Clothes
- lightweight long sleeves and long trousers to minimise sun damage
- Avoid light clothes that will get dirty and dusty quickly (especially on the second day!)
Swimwear
- One of my favourite days was when we visited a waterfall where you can swim and jump off rocks so make sure you have some swimmers!
Extras
- Head torch – Depending on how many and what caves you decide to visit, this could come in handy
- Suncream – you will need this! And lots of it! You don’t always feel the sun’s heat on the bike but it’s there. And don’t forget to wash your hands…
- Camera—You will be driving through some of the most beautiful parts of Laos, visiting caves and beautiful natural sights. If you have a camera, you’ll want to bring it!
- Bug spray – you will be travelling through rural Laos, where the chances of catching malaria are much higher. Don’t take risks and ensure you’re wearing that bug spray.
Choosing the Right Travel Insurance
When you’re budget backpacking, every penny counts. It’s tempting to skip things that don’t feel urgent, and so often it’s travel insurance that’s the first to go. But after months on the road, I’ve seen just how quickly things can go wrong.
Whether it’s a bad case of food poisoning (yes, you can be hospitalised for that), a bad fall on a hike or the dreaded lost luggage, having insurance will save you (and your wallet) a lot more than you think.
When I first went backpacking, I did a ton of research before finally landing on SafetyWing’s Essential Plan, and I haven’t looked back since. It is ideal for trips like mine, which are short to medium-length travels with a flexible schedule. Plus, I love that it runs like a rolling subscription, so once you’re signed up, you don’t have to think about it again.
It offers a great amount of protection, with up to $250,000 for emergency medical costs (like hospital stays and urgent care), plus coverage for trip delays, lost luggage, and optional add-ons for adventure sports or stolen electronics.
For those travelling for longer, they also offer a Complete Plan for long-term travellers or digital nomads. This includes much more extensive coverage for both when you’re away and at home, including routine check-ups, mental health services, and maternity care. It’s more expensive, but worth looking into if you’re travelling full-time.
Perfect Itinerary for the Thakhek Loop (In my opinion!)
Saying this is the perfect itinerary may be a bold statement, but I have to say I think I’m right. One of the great things about the loop is that, whilst a few other people are doing it at the same time as you, you all end up doing slightly different things but often cross paths. This means you can sit and debrief, discovering the different things on the loop.
After talking to others, I do think we had it pretty perfect. So today, I’m sharing with you the exact four-day, three-night itinerary we took around the Thakhek loop, including where we stayed and what we did in each section. I’ve also included the other things you can do on each day, so you can tailor it even more to suit you.
Day 0 of the Thakhek Loop
You will most likely arrive in Thakhek the day before you start your loop. This will give you time to rest up, meet people to do the loop with, decide where you’re going to get your bike, plan your next day and get excited for the upcoming adventure.
Where to Stay in Thakhek
There’s not a huge amount of options on where to stay in Thakhek, especially if you want to book in advance (which I would highly recommend if you’re going to be arriving later in the evening, like we were).
If you’re a budget traveller, stay at Naga Hostel. It costs around $8 a night, which most likely will be your most expensive night of the trip, but it’s still pretty cheap; the rooms and bathrooms are clean, and the owner is great if a bit of a stickler for the rules. But so long as you follow them (see his photos on HostelWorld for the full list), he’s very lovely and willing to help you plan your trip.
Having taken the route 8 times now, he knows pretty much all there is. He even gives you a Google Maps page which has all the places saved, recommendations on what not to miss, and some places where to stay. So, to be honest, if you stay there, you might not even need this post! But please, keep reading anyway 😝.
Day 1 of the Thakhek Loop: Thakhek to Tha Lang
Wake up early on your first day and head to your chosen bike shop to get your bike. We chose Pokémon Go, but there are plenty to choose from (as I’ve talked about above). Most bike shops have a WhatsApp number linked to their Google Maps location, but you can most likely just turn up, and they will have bikes available. Just get there early enough that you can choose a good bike.
Xieng Liap Cave
Then, it’s time to hit the road. Once you leave Thakhek, you’ll be driving through valleys surrounded by limestone cliffs covered in lush trees and rice fields. And your first stop isn’t too far either. Xieng Liap Cave is about 20 minutes away from Thakhek and costs just 10,000 kip to visit.
It’s a pretty quick stop, but the cave is pretty impressive, and I’d recommend climbing through the cave to reach the other side, as the sunlight coming through is very beautiful.
Pha Katai viewpoint
Next, continue on for a nice 50-minute drive through some lovely parts of rural Laos to Pha Katai viewpoint. 20k kip to enter (pay to a lady whose house is on the road leading up to the viewpoint), it’s a steep 20-30 minute climb up some of the most questionable stairs I have had the joy of climbing. Health and safety is not a great concern here, but it’s all part of the fun.
At the top, however, you will be rewarded with some incredible 360 views of the road you’ve just driven, and where you’re heading. It’s quite fun to see from above, and I’d highly recommend it despite the questionable stairs. Just watch out for some of the planks on the floor of the viewing tower as they’re not all nailed down!
Lunch
By now, we were pretty hungry, so we headed across the main road to the cafe named View Theun on Google Maps. Now, a thing I’ve noticed with Laos is that they are very honest with their customer service – if they don’t want you there, they are not afraid of making it known.
For some reason, we weren’t allowed into the first restaurant we tried despite others being there, so we moved on to the next. There was a pretty big language barrier, but with some miming and pointing at it, we managed to get some pretty good food and were ready to be on our way.
Song Sa Waterfall
The final stop of the day and the perfect way to finish was the Song Sa Waterfall. Just 20 minutes up the road, this was a beautiful waterfall that looked a lot more impressive in real life. The photo above is just a small section; I promise you it’s worth the visit.
It’s perfect for a swim after driving, getting rid of all that dust and sweat from the day, with multiple large pools to swim and, for the adrenaline junkies out there, there are even a few rock jumping spots.
No matter which route you’re going, the first destination for your first day of the loop will be the same: Tha Lang Village. The road here is a bit windy after the waterfall, so you will want to make it here before dark. When we were travelling in November, this was around 5 pm, but I think it’s pretty similar throughout the year.
Where to Stay in Tha Lang Village
There are two main options for where to stay in Tha Lang:
- Sabaidee Guest House – this is perfect for backpackers. I feel like everyone I met on the loop was staying here, and they have a large BBQ every evening, which is very social around a large fire. As we ended up travelling as a 5, we got a room to ourselves, but smaller groups and solo travellers seemed to end up in a large room altogether.
We simply turned up and booked directly with them, but you can book in advance by messaging on WhatsApp through the number on Google Maps. It cost 150k kip per person, and the BBQ was 120k, which was a bit expensive, but as it’s all-you-can-eat, you can definitely stock up and make your money worth it. - Phosey Thalang, Laos – this is perfect for couples who are looking for a private room and some tranquillity. The small bungalows sit right on the riverside with hammocks on the balcony so you can sit back and relax after your day riding. Plus, if you fancy joining the BBQ and socialising with other loopers, you can always go to Sabaidee Guest House and join in.
More Things to Do on Day 1 of the Takhek Loop
- Thafalang is a beautiful spot where you can swim in the river and cool off for a minute. It is surrounded by lush forest and lined with little huts where you can spend an hour or so relaxing. We stopped by here but decided not to stay as it was quite early on in the loop, and we were keen to keep moving, but it did look rather lovely.
- Tham Nang Ene Cave – This is a much larger cave, a little further along from Xieng Liap Cave. It costs 50,000 kips to enter and 150,000 kips to upgrade to take a boat. Whilst this does seem like a pretty impressive cave, it was quite a lot. Plus, with more caves to come, we felt it was okay to skip this one.
Read Also: How to Visit Jomblang Vertical Cave, Indonesia
Day 2 of the Thakhek Loop: Tha Lang to Konglor
Day two of the loop was one of the most beautiful sections of the loop. Your day starts off with a drive through flooded forests with their skeletal trucks peaking from the water, and it carries on through incredible valleys and rolling hills.
Where you choose to sleep also changes here, depending on how you want to break up your journey. After speaking to some other people on the loop, I would recommend how we did it as I think you get the most versatility, and get to know a bit more of Laos.
Note: Due to some road works on the stretch just before Na Hin, where they close the road between 1.30 pm and 5.30 pm, you will need to plan your day ever so slightly. We opted to get past this section before 1.30 to avoid travelling in the dark. It’s the worst road on the loop, covered in dust with large lorries passing and completely covering you in dust and blocking your vision. Of course, if you don’t mind doing this in the dark after 5.30 pm, you can take the day a bit slower.
Route
I’ll be honest, even though this was maybe my favourite day of the trip, I don’t have much to say about it. As we wanted to get to Na Hin by 1.30 pm, we opted to enjoy the drive and skipped the stops on the way. It was a day of appreciating the drive and enjoying the Laotian countryside. (Don’t worry, I’ve still listed all the extra stops you can do below if you’re interested).
Just before the roadworks, we stopped on a bridge to see the “bomb boats”. These canoes were crafted from the fuel tanks of bombs left over from the Vietnam War. Ingeniously repurposed by locals, these boats symbolise resilience and resourcefulness.
Where to Stay in Konglor
The second day of the loop is when people’s routes tend to change quite a lot. You can either stay in Na Hin or opt to continue on to Konglor, ready to visit its cave in the morning. We opted for the latter, which seemed like the least popular option, and I have no idea why. A lot of people on the loop only came to Konglor to visit the cave, but I think they really missed out.
This small, sleepy village is the perfect place to relax after two days of driving, surrounded by fields and farms and very local restaurants. Plus, you can stay in cheap guesthouses with some of the most beautiful views.
- Konglor Thamchalern Guesthouse – This guest house has two locations in Konglor, one of which has incredible views and outdoor hammocks, and another that’s not quite so quaint. Due to a slight confusion with the language, we thought we were staying in the first one for a few sweet hours. Unfortunately, we were not.
But it was still incredibly cheap and quiet, so we can’t complain. If you would like to stay in the nicer one, I’d highly recommend booking this a few days in advance so you can get this view for a very reasonable price of 250k per night. - SpringRiver Resort – If you’re not as budget-conscious as me and want to have a treat, the Spring River Resort is for you. This tranquil riverside retreat offers stunning views of the Nam Hin Bun River. Its cosy bungalows and hammocks are perfect for unwinding after a few days on the bike.
More to Do on Day 2 of the Thakhek Loop
- Cool Pool – The Cool Pool is a natural swimming hole surrounded by lush greenery. It’s clear, cool waters make it perfect for a relaxing dip, especially on a hot day. It’s a little off the main loop, and I have heard it is a hot spot for having your bags nicked, so don’t leave your belongings unattended
- Dragon Cave – Known for its dragon-like formations and peaceful atmosphere, the Dragon Cave is a small but fascinating limestone cave. Inside, you’ll find stalactites, stalagmites, and Buddha statues, making it a scenic detour.
Day 3 of the Thakhek Loop: Konglor to Na Hin
Day 3 of the loop is a lovely, slow one, with only an hour of riding if you decide to stay in Konglor, and 2 if you stay in Na Hin (1 hour to the cave, and 1 hour back).
Konglor Cave
One of the biggest things to do on the loop, Konglor Cav,e is a must-visit. 7.5km long, you can take a boat through the entire cave and climb some of its impressive rock formations. I’m not the biggest cave person, but even I was impressed by this one.
It is one of the most expensive things on the loop, with the entrance and boat ride costing 300k kip for a solo traveller, or 200k kip if there are 2 or more of you. A pretty tough example of solo tax there, but sadly it’s true.
If you want to spend longer in the area, there are lots of other things you can do, like river rafting, biking, or guided hiking in and around the cave. Of course, these come with additional expenses, so it really depends on your budget and interests.
Sunset at The Rock View Point
After you visit the cave, there’s not much more to do for the day except make your way to Na Hin for the evening. We took our time and arrived at around 4.30 pm. After finding a room for the night, we stumbled across some other loopers who were headed to the Rock for the sunset. This hadn’t even occurred to us, but it sounded like a fun idea, so I decided to tag along, and I am so glad I did.
This turned out to be one of the most beautiful sunsets I have seen, and I can’t believe we almost missed it. The viewpoint itself is pretty impressive, but with the sun burning the most gorgeous orange, you could see all the different layers of mountains lit up in various shades of blue.
It was the kind of sunset you feel lucky to witness, and I would highly recommend making sure you get there with enough time. We were a bit rushed, so try to be there by 4.45 pm, just so you have enough time. There’s also a bar and restaurant at the Rock, so you can grab a drink and a seat on the balcony if you’d like to watch it with style.
Where to Stay in Na Hin
We turned up on the evening and asked around at a few guesthouses (there are plenty to choose from), but here are the ones we stayed at, plus some other recommendations by fellow loopers:
- Pharmarnview Guest House – After scouting a few places in the area, we settled on the Pharmarnview Guest House. The rooms were spacious and clean, and came with a fresh towel and even your own fridge. Plus, the cafe was a great stop for breakfast before hitting the road in the morning.
- Sanhak Guest House – Another good budget-friendly option in the Sanhak Guest House. With basic amenities and a convenient location, it’s got all you need for the night, plus the restaurant serves some pretty delicious ice cream (this I can verify for myself).
Day 4 of the Thakhek Loop: Na Hin to Thakhek
Honestly, day 4 of the loop is pretty boring, especially if you’re a budget backpacker. You have some interesting, winding hills as you come out of Na Hin – be careful as the lorries come round those bends completely in the middle of the road and unaware of you – but apart from that, it’s all along the motorway back to Thakhek.
However, if you do have room in your budget, you can head back to the Rock viewpoint and enjoy some pretty cool activities. From 2-hour zipline courses to abseiling and …. It’s the perfect place to spend the morning for adrenaline junkies looking for a little extra fix.
It is quite pricey, but for the risky things you’re doing, that’s probably a good sign. Expect to pay $50+ for the zipline and other activities.
Additional Possible Routes for the Thakhek Loop
The great thing about the Takhek loop is that it’s completely self-sufficient. You choose your bike, drive yourself, and choose where to stop along the way and where to stay at night. That also means there are a few ways you can do it, depending on time constraints or personal preferences.
As I said before, I think the route above is a great option and would always recommend it. But, here are some other ways you can do the loop, which might suit you better:
3 Days, 2 Nights
If you’re short on time, you can still do the loop, don’t worry! In 3 days, you can still enjoy the stunning ride, visit the best places along the way, and not feel too overly rushed.
- Day 1: Day 1 starts the same, driving from Thakhek to Tha Lang.
- Day 2: Day 2 is also the same as what we did, with the drive from Tha Lang to Konglor.
- Day 3: Your third day will be a little longer, driving from Konglor to Thakhek, skipping the night in Na Hin. But, as it’s only an hour’s drive from Konglor to Na Hin, it’s not too much extra driving. Just make sure you’re up bright and early!
4 Days, 3 Nights
Whilst I briefly mentioned the alternative way to do 4 days in my itinerary, here’s a clear breakdown for you:
- Day 1: This is the same for all routes, riding from Thakhek to Tha Lang.
- Day 2: Take day 2 a little easier (but watch out for the road closure between 1.30 pm and 5.30 pm just before Na Hin), and travel from Tha Lang to Na Hin.
- Day 3: Stay in Na Hin another night, and drive to Konglor and back to visit the cave.
- Day 4: Return to Thakhek.
5 Days, 4 Nights
Whilst 4 days is great, you may want to spend a little bit more time getting to know the rural side of Laos. In that case, 5 days is perfect for a bit more in-depth exploration:
- Day 1: Drive from Thakhek to Tha Lang
- Day 2: Drive from Tha Lang to Na Hin
- Day 3: Drive from Na Hin to Konglor
- Day 4: Enjoy Konglor for the day, exploring on your bike or enjoying the nearby trekking.
- Day 5: Finish with Konglor to Thakhek. Alternatively, you can drive back to Na Hin on your 4th day to reduce this final drive.
How Much Does the Thakhek Loop Cost: Complete Budget Breakdown
Whilst inflations seem to be pretty big in Laos (prices on Google reviews seem to be a lot cheaper even from a few months ago), here is a breakdown of how much I think you will need for your trip, based on what I paid in November 2024.
- Accommodation: 100-150k kip per night
- Food: 30-60k kip per meal (exception is the first night’s family BBQ, which is 150k kip)
- Transport: 150-180k kip per day for bike rental
- Activities: 20-200k kip per day.
Overall, I spent around 1,800,000 kips for the entire 4 days, including rental, accommodation, food and activities, which is around $80. For a once in a lifetime experience, I don’t think that’s too bad. Of course, it’s the activities you choose to do, and the number of them is what’s most likely going to make this cheaper or more expensive.
The Wrap-Up: Your Complete Guide to the Thakhek Loop
Whichever way you decide to tackle the Thakhek Loop, it’s bound to be an unforgettable experience. For me, it wasn’t just one of the highlights of Laos – it might just top my entire trip around Southeast Asia. The breathtaking scenery alone would have been enough to leave a lasting impression, but what truly surprised me was the connections I made with other people on this trip.
When you’re on the road for a longer trip, you’re able to form deeper connections with your travel companions. Unlike the fleeting interactions that often come with the fast pace of backpacking, the loop creates a shared journey.
The Thakhek Loop isn’t just about the epic landscapes and thrilling rides; it’s about the moments you share and the people you meet along the way. Whether you’re travelling solo or with a group, you’ll come away with stories to tell and memories that will stick with you long after the trip ends.
